February 2, 2018 – Structure, texture, form – these three words perfectly describe the mere essence of the designs that took over the runway in the Spring 2018 Couture show. Taking place in none other than Paris, the week of January 22, 2018 – February 1, 2018 was an unforgettable week featuring some of the world’s most renowned designers. There were a plethora of designers that showcased their best work, but I am going to be examining what makes my favorites, my favorites.

All photos courtesy of Vogue.

1. Viktor & Rolf

I would describe myself as a person who falls into the fashion category of more grungy, streetwear style. Rarely do I wear pinks, frilly dresses, or girly ensembles. In spite of this, Viktor & Rolf’s designs blew me away. The bright and vibrant color palette mixed with the sophisticated structure was a recipe for an intriguing show. Their innovative play on structure created a recognizable look, especially from this specific runway presentation. 

This pale pink woven mini dress hit all of the areas for me. Between the perfect fit to flatter almost any body shape, the open neckline, and a finishing detail of the lavender bow, I was taken aback with this piece. It caught my eye online and from there on, I was hooked.

The other thing Viktor & Rolf did well was the use of three dimensional elements and structure. The use of roses peeking off of the mask was innovative and made the design stand out. Not only did the roses extend and elevate this outfit, the bows cinching the front of the dress gave a gorgeous structure while adding size. Though this isn’t a casual outing piece, runway designs are meant to be artistic, creative, and innovative. The pastel green mini dress was my absolute favorite. Again, the use of the flowers gives the dress a distinct dimension and creates an elegance to the look. When mixed with the deep purple choker-like necktie, the dress felt a heavy juxtaposition in color and this WORKED! I think Viktor & Rolf’s pieces did it all. Every single one of them.

2. A.F. Vandevorst

Doing a complete 180, this designer focuses heavily on the depths of design. From deeper colors to a completely different complexity to the pieces, A.F. Vandevorst is a memorable designer. 

I want to start off this look by pointing out the insanely amazing corset belt the model is wearing. Featuring an abundance of pockets with zippers, buttons, and flaps, this piece alone will change the way purses and handbags are worn. This slow transition from purses to wearable storage items is becoming apparent with many mainstream trends already. As we have seen a lot, (too much for my liking) the fanny pack quietly made its way back into the trend circle this past year. Though not everyone was on board with it, it will alter the perception of other forms of the fanny pack. As shown above, this fanny pack-esque belt will possibly become a new way to store your items as opposed to a purse. Though there will probably never be a permanent or complete shift out of purses (since they do add so much elevation to an outfit) there will be a shift in more casual ways to carry personal items. I also appreciate the all black, grungier look. The leather arm sleeves with a cotton upper hoodie was the perfect way to incorporate a little bit more into a casual piece.

Recently worn by Bella Hadid for their runway show as well as Rihanna and Hailee Steinfeld for the Grammy’s, Vauthier is everywhere. Structure is the characterizing quality of his work. This first look features the most beautiful mix of a muted emerald with a hint of blue. The heavy draping of this dress flowed in such a complicated way.  Every piece has an elaborate form to it and he is always introducing unprecedented styles to the fashion world.

Red was Alexandre’s COLOR! The quality and radiance of these reds are incomparable, like nothing I have truly seen before. Once again, it is evident that structure plays an essential role in making his pieces notable. From a viewer/consumer perspective, the construction of his looks is incomprehensible; plain and simple. Alexandre Vauthier is probably my favorite runway designer right now, for good and obvious reasons.

4. Chanel

Finishing off, I will stick with an eminent figure in the fashion world since the beginning of time – Chanel. You don’t have to be heavily involved in fashion to know that Coco Chanel is one of the reigning leaders in this industry. The timeless, classic designs are what will never outdate the brand and keep fashion-savvy people around the world yearning for a piece. This runway presentation took place in a French-style garden; what could have been better for this line? Texture was obviously an important part of this season’s looks. Tweed was the main texture Chanel’s line played around with this year, though it is always incorporated as apart of their signature look.

Tweed from head to toe. Even the shoes! This ensemble looks like it came straight out of Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This look really emanates the stereotypical 1940’s “brunch with the girlfriends” – which I adore. The color palette is absolutely exquisite and the rage of structured shoulders is coming back. Finished off with a beautiful flowered veil, this whole look was a hit.

Like mentioned before, Chanel is timeless. If that isn’t obvious enough from these photos and designs, the elegance of patterns like sheer overlays and beautiful beading should be enough to tell. I can’t ever say I am blown away with Chanel because, in all honesty, they do it right every time; they are just expected to be exceptional.

The Spring 2018 Couture runway presentations prove once again that fashion is always evolving and molding as a product of its time, but can be such a timeless source of art as well. There were so many different styles and designs that took over Paris this past week and it enthralled me to say the least. I am so excited to see what the rest of the fashion weeks have in store this year.

-Sydney Scarola